In part 1 I introduced the basics of parrying, namely that for two swords to interact their blades need to cross. One way of doing this is to 'block' the incoming strike by laying the blade of our sword across the line of their attack, like a tree falling over a train track.
This gave us a diagram like this, showing the 'static' parries - i.e. the 'blocks'.
The 'straight parry' works slightly differently, by introducing some lateral (side to side) motion.
Straight parry
Imagine I am standing in a position called the Iron Gate (Eisenport). (You could also be in longpoint, which is similar but with the blade even more extended). This broadly looks like this, with the hilt low, the point high, and held centrally in front of me:
If a high attack from my left is made at me by my opponent, I turn my sword (or my entire body, really) into the incoming cut.
On the face of it, this brings my sword into alignment with the direction of their cut. Their cut should pass straight down/alongside my blade and hit me... and it will if I stop there, so I keep going until my point has passed over their blade. Now something different happens: my blade 'scoops up' their blade and deflects it off to the side and down towards my cross guard. Whereas my cross guard was pointing forward before, as I've turned into their cut, my cross guard is now pointing out to the side, in the perfect position to catch their cut (or alternatively their attack is deflected down towards the ground).
Unlike static parrying, where I form a cross to block the direction that the opponent's cut is travelling, instead I form a cross with the opponent's sword in the direction that my sword is travelling. This might be a bit clearer when viewed from the side:
We now need to view this from above to see what is happening:
You can clearly see three things happening.
As Orange turns into the incoming strike, his blade is 'scooping up' Blue's blade, and the sideways motion of Orange's blade is displacing the strike off to the side.
The hilt of Orange's sword is moving outside of Orange's body, and the cross guard direction is turning to catch the strike as it slides down the blade.
Orange now has an overbind on Blue's sword.
This works against any downwards strike from above, on either side.
In a way, we can think of this as 'inside-out' parrying, because our hilt is on our inside, and out point is off to the outside.
Rising cuts
In theory, it works against rising cuts too, as the act of turning your blade out to the side results in a true cross with the direction of the cut. In practice, however, as you turn, your hit also moves out to the side. Therefore, unless you step well off to the side away from the incoming cut, their cut will likely pass through your hands rather than hit your blade (ouch!). It is definitely doable, but you need to step away from their cut!
You can also form an overbind by directing your tip towards the ground. This scoops up their blade onto yours, where their strike slides up into your cross guard. This should make your hands less vulnerable.
Beat it
True edge beat
The example I showed above is of a parry from a stationary Iron Gate type position. However, the same principle applies if you parry with a downwards strike. In this case, you start in a high guard position, and as your opponent's cut comes in you strike downwards, turning into their strike and bind down over the top of their blade. This is essentially a beat.
False edge beat
The straight parry also works in reverse, that is you start with your blade on the outside of their strike (e.g. in porta di ferro larga or the 'Change' guard), and you turn your blade into their strike, usually using your false edge. Rather than pushing their blade against the direction of their cut, it pushes it with the direction of their cut. If done with enough force, their blade will overshoot before it reaches you.
Bind them down
Straight parrying is the basis for all overbinds. It uses the strong structure that a position like longpoint or the iron gate provides and directs the strong of your blade onto the weak of theirs. By pushing down on their blade with the weight of your body, you can form a strong overbind.
Pros and cons
This form of parry has a number of advantages.
It is simple. I can use the same guard or cut to parry strikes from various directions. If someone cuts at you from left then right then left then right, use this parry and go backwards until you can recover (or your opponent loses steam). (This is an 'oh shit!' parry).
The parry will naturally form an overbind on your opponent's sword. This makes this a good parry if you want to take control of your opponent's weapon.
It forms a strong parry because a) 'the sword is always strongest in the direction it is pointing', according to Joseph Swetnum; b) you form an overbind; c) because of the steep angles involved relative to the incoming strike, this allows you to deflect their cut meaning you are less reliant on the strong of your blade absorbing the full impact of their strike.
The disadvantage is mainly that it takes your blade offline, removing the threat to your opponent. Furthermore, because you are in an extended position such as longpoint, you may not be in a position to riposte with a cut of your own. The opponent can use this to their advantage, e.g. by disengaging under your blade when (or before) you make the parry to attack your now open centre, especially if you haven't formed a strong overbind.
Taken by itself, straight parrying is fairly basic, and there are definitely better options. However, I find that its strength is that it can be combined with other types of parry to strengthen them temporarily.
Using it in practice
If you want to perform a true edge beat or overbind:
If they are in a high guard on their right (meaning they will strike to your left), you need to be in a high guard on your right. Likewise, if they are in a high guard position on their left (your right), you need to be in a high guard position on your left.
As they attack, you strike into a longpoint-like position and turn your entire body into their cut. As you parry, now strongly overbind them and push their blade down towards the ground.
If you want to perform a false edge beat, strike 'behind' their cut:
If they are in a high guard on their right (your left), you need to be in a low guard on your left (i.e. the 'same side' as their blade). Likewise, if they are high left (your right), you need to be low right.
As they strike, you swing your blade out and diagonally upwards and get your blade 'behind' their blade. Carry on until your blade is at least in the centre. With enough force, your opponent's blade would have overshot you and missed.
From this position you can now make a true edge cut to the opponent back in the direction from which you have just cut.
This parry needs to be done with speed and force otherwise their strike may still hit you.
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